How is a sheepskin made? Tanning process explanation

A soft, shiny sheepskin on your couch or floor may feel natural, but behind this beautiful natural product is a centuries-old craft: tanning. It is a meticulous process in which craftsmanship, patience and the right techniques come together to transform a rough sheepskin into a durable and supple natural product that will last for years.

In this blog I take you step by step through the tanning process as it is still carried out by specialized European tanneries. You will discover what processes are needed, why each phase is so important and what to look for to recognize a really well tanned sheepskin.

In this blog about the tanning process of a sheepskin:

1. What is tanning a sheepskin?
2. Where do our sheepskins come from?
3. The tanning process step by step
   3.1 Salting and preservation
   3.2 Washing and light degreasing
   3.3 Derinding and scraping
   3.4 Pickling (pretreatment)
   3.5 Tanning
   3.6 Drying
   3.7 Degreasing
   3.8 Sanding (Buffing)
   3.9 Wool care & dust removal
   3.10 Finishing and selection
4. How do you recognize a well-tanned sheepskin?

What is tanning a sheepskin?

Before a sheepskin gets that soft, warm and luxurious look that fits perfectly into your interior, a lot has to happen. One of the most important steps in that process is tanning the fleece. But what exactly does tanning entail?

Tanning a sheepskin is the process of processing the raw hide (the sheepskin) to make it durable, supple, (virtually) odorless, and long-lasting without getting dirty. It is an artisanal process that uses natural or chemical tanning agents (depending on the tanning process) to preserve and strengthen the hide material. Thus, an animal by-product transforms into a beautiful natural product for your interior.

Whereas with ordinary leather products (think shoes, bags etc). often only the hide is important, with sheepskins the wool is also still present. This requires a specific method of tanning in which both the hide and the wool remain in optimal condition.

Tanning makes the sheepskin:

• Supple and soft, retaining structure
• Resistant to desiccation and rotting
• Suitable for daily use in the home
• Safe for people and pets

Where do our sheepskins come from?

A sheepskin is a truly natural product, and as with any natural product, origin is important. The quality of a sheepskin starts with the sheep itself. Consider the climate in which the sheep lives, the breed, the diet and how the sheep is cared for. In our sheepskin collection you will only find sheepskins that come from European farmers.

Our sheepskins come from countries such as:

• Iceland: known for its long, shaggy coats with a unique look
• England: with beautiful dense wool textures
• Netherlands and Germany: where short to mid-length wool coats are popular for everyday use

The fleeces we sell are always a by-product of the meat industry. No sheep is purely used for its fleece, this we find extra important to emphasize. In fact, this is how Lederstore was founded: nothing gets to waste. That way, this beautiful material gets a second life, and you contribute to the sustainable and conscious use of natural resources that would otherwise be lost through the destructor, incinerator or landfill.

We work with specialized tanneries that provide the best and most beautiful sheepskins. We already ask our tanneries there to pay close attention to the quality and in addition, every sheepskin that comes to us is checked again for:

• Wool texture and softness
• Possible odor
• And the finish

The tanning process step by step

Before a sheepskin becomes a decorative and comfortable piece in your interior, it undergoes a careful processing process. This process, also called tanning a sheepskin, transforms the raw sheepskin into a durable, soft and odorless coat that will last for years.

Each step must be performed perfectly to preserve the quality of the coat as well as to make it suitable for daily use at home. From the initial cleaning to the final brushing and finishing, below we take you through the complete tanning process as carried out today.

3.1 Salting and preservation

When a sheep is processed for the food industry, the skin is released as a byproduct. At that point, it is important to preserve it as soon as possible to maintain its quality. This is because as soon as the hide is released, the natural decomposition process begins immediately.

To stop this, the skin is immediately salted. The salt draws moisture from the skin and creates an environment in which bacteria cannot multiply. This keeps the skin in optimal condition during transport to the tannery. Even a short delay without salt can lead to damage, such as hair loss, odor or staining in the leather.

Salting is usually done with coarse salt, which is spread by hand or machine over the flesh side of the hide. For larger quantities, the hides are stacked in layers, with salt applied between each layer. This allows the hides to remain good for several days, even before the actual tanning process begins.

3.2 Washing and light degreasing

After salt preservation, the hides arrive at the tannery. The first step there is a thorough washing, designed to remove salt residue, dirt, dust and a small amount of grease from the hide. This is done in large drums or wash basins with water and special, skin-friendly detergents.

During washing, not only the leather is cleaned, but also the wool side of the coat. This reveals the natural color of the wool and already makes it feel fresher immediately.

This is followed by a light degreasing. Sheepskins naturally contain lanolin, a fatty, waxy substance that protects the sheep. At this early stage, only some of this lanolin is removed so that the skin can be tanned better.

The real, thorough degreasing happens later in the process (see step 3.7 Degreasing). There, virtually all excess lanolin is removed, eventually leaving the coat soft, odorless and suitable for daily use.

3.3 Defleshing and scraping

Once the skin is completely clean and degreased, de-fleshing follows. This is an important technical process in which all remaining membrane and flesh residue is removed from the flesh side of the skin.

This is done with special machines that use a large, sharp knife or roller to scrape the hide evenly clean. This step ensures that the leather later becomes supple and allows the tanning agents to penetrate evenly. Even small blemishes or scraps can adversely affect the final result, both in terms of softness and durability.

Scraping requires precision: scraping too hard can make the hide thin and weaken it, while scraping too softly causes residue to remain. In the tannery, this balance is monitored by experienced craftsmen who know exactly how much pressure and speed is needed.

After defleshing, the skin is completely free of flesh debris, membranes and excess layers, and ready for the next step: the pikiel treatment, in which the skin is prepared for the actual tanning.

3.4 Pickling treatment (pretreatment)

Before the actual tanning process begins, the hide undergoes a pikiel treatment. This is a pretreatment in which the sheepskin is placed in a bath of water and acid (called pikiel) for several days.

The purpose of this step is to:

• Making the skin supple and flexible
• Open the fibers so that the tannins can penetrate better later on

After the pikiel, the hides are piled up and left to rest for a few days. This resting period allows the treatment to penetrate deeply into the leather.

3.5 Tanning

Now it's time for the heart of the process: the tanning itself. This involves treating the hide with special substances to preserve it, strengthen it and make it suitable for long-term use in the home. Depending on the desired end result, the tannery chooses one of the following methods:

• Relugan tanning: For medicated sheepskin, hypoallergenic and ideal for babies or those with sensitive skin. Often gives a soft, creamy finish.
• Chrome Tanning: Commonly used in coats that are later dyed in different colors. Produces a supple and hard-wearing leather.
• Plant/Eco-tanning: Chrome-free and environmentally friendly, often chosen for durability and a more natural look.

Tanning takes place in large, rotating vessels in which the hides are treated together with the tannins. This step usually lasts one day and is the conclusion of the so-called wet production.

3.6 Drying

After tanning, the hides are clean, preserved and ready for slow drying. This is not done outdoors or on racks, but in special industrial drying machines.

These dryers operate with carefully controlled temperature and humidity so that the leather dries evenly without becoming hard or brittle. This process is important to maintain the skin's natural suppleness and prevent shrinkage or distortion.

When the hides are completely dry, they can be further processed in the following steps, such as degreasing and caring for both the leather and wool sides.

3.7 Degreasing

After tanning and drying, thorough degreasing follows. This involves removing excess grease from both the leather underside and the wool. While lanolin is valuable in skin care, for example, you only want to retain it in an interior coat to a limited extent. Too much grease can cause a sticky feeling or musty odor.

Special degreasing machines remove virtually all excess lanolin, while preserving its natural softness. This is a costly and technical process, but essential for a soft, fresh and odorless coat.

A coat that has been properly degreased not only feels more comfortable, but also lasts much longer without losing quality. This is one of the characteristics by which you recognize a truly well-tanned sheepskin.

3.8 Sanding (Buffing)

After degreasing, the underside of the skin - the suede side - receives extra attention. Using special sanders, this side is evenly roughened. This process is called buffing and creates a smooth, even and luxurious-looking surface.

Sanding removes any unevenness and residual fibers, and also makes the hide more supple and beautiful in texture. A well-sanded suede lace is soft to the touch and adds to the high-quality appearance of the coat.

This step does not affect the wool silk, but is critical to the aesthetics and durability of the leather base.

3.9 Wool care & dust removal

After the leather underside is finished, it is time to put the wool silk in top condition. First, the coat is ironed or pressed to open up the wool. This causes the hairs to fall more beautifully and regain their natural, airy volume.

Then the skins go into a large rotating drum with a steel mesh (similar to a rugged dryer system). This drum removes all the fine dust particles created during the scouring process. The result is a clean, dust-free and voluminous wool ready for final manual finishing.

3.10 Finishing and selection

The final stage is all about detail and perfection. This is where each sheepskin receives the manual care that makes the difference between a standard product and a truly high-quality end result.

First, the wool is manually combed and brushed. This ensures that the hair falls nicely, tangles and loose wool disappear and the coat gets its full, luxurious look. With long wools, such as Icelandic coats, extra attention is paid to maintaining the natural beat and luster.

The skins are then trimmed to their final shape and size. This takes into account a clean, natural contour without fraying. Any blemishes are removed so that the coat looks perfect.

Finally, quality control takes place. Each coat is carefully inspected for softness, color, odor, wool texture and finish.

How do you recognize a well-tanned sheepskin?

Each sheepskin is a unique natural product with its own charms. To offer you the best quality, we only work with a select number of tanneries that have proven their quality and craftsmanship over the years. The tanning process, finishing and selection criteria make the difference between a coat that stays beautiful for years and one that quickly loses its charm. But as a buyer, what exactly can you look for?

1. Softness of the wool

A well-tanned sheepskin has wool that is supple, resilient and soft to the touch. The bristles should spring back easily when you run your hand through them. A stiff, hard or fluffy wool may indicate a careless washing or drying process.

2. Supple leather

The underside (suede lace) should be soft, smooth and even.

3. No unpleasant odor

A quality tanned coat smells neutral, or has a subtle, natural scent of wool and leather. Sometimes a slight scent of detergent may also be present. A pungent, musty or farmhouse odor may indicate inadequate degreasing or poor preservation.

4. Even structure

With natural coats, the color may vary, but the wool texture should be consistent throughout, which is the most beautiful and finest. Pay particular attention to an even distribution of wool and the absence of bald spots.

5. Strong but flexible

A well-tanned coat does not simply tear there should be suppleness in the leather.

6. Craftsmanship in finishing

Note the trim along the edges. In high-quality coats, these are neatly trimmed and follow a natural line with no loose pieces.

Wondering what we all look for when selecting our sheepskins? Then read the blog: 11 tips for buying a sheepskin.

Tanning a sheepskin is an artisanal process that requires skill, time and care. Each step, from salting to the final brushing, determines how the coat ultimately looks, feels and smells. It is this carefully executed process that makes the difference between a coat you enjoy for a moment and one that retains its beauty for years to come.

By choosing a high-quality, tanned sheepskin, you can be sure that you are bringing a good natural product into your home. Want to discover which sheepskin best suits your style and needs? Take a look at our collection of sheepskins.

Need help picking out your new sheepskin?

Would you like to buy a real sheepskin but are not quite sure and would like to get extra help and advice? I would be happy to help you with any questions you may have. Then you can make a well-considered choice and go for the fur that perfectly fits your wishes and needs. You can contact me at +31(0)6 17 52 13 63 (during opening hours), send an e-mail or come by in Boxmeer, the Netherlands (by appointment only) to experience them.